This summer, I finally got the chance to travel to somewhere I have been wanting to visit for years: Italy. My boyfriend and I spent whirlwind week in Ischia, Naples and even Rome for an afternoon! We squeezed a lot into our short trip and soaked in every second. There is too much to cover in just one post so here is a wee guide on how to spend 4 days in Ischia.
Where to stay?
The island of Ischia is pretty small with two main ferry ports at Casamicciola Terme and Ischia Porto. We chose to stay in an Airbnb apartment a short walk from Ischia Porto which was ideal for us as we loved to walk down into town to eat at night and it was right by a bus stop to reach the rest of the island. We usually choose to stay in Airbnb’s when we travel as they are more affordable than hotels and we love the freedom to stay in and cook for ourselves some nights, however there are also a lot of hotels on Ischia ranging from 5 star down to more basic options.
How to get about?
There are regular buses that cover almost the whole island so even if you don’t have a hire car you will have no problem exploring this gorgeous place. The buses can get uncomfortably busy at peak times and were definitely not true to their timetables on a number of occasions, but if you’re lucky enough to nab a seat by the window, the incredible views offered by the windy island roads make the experience worthwhile in itself. If you are staying far from any of the ferry ports or away from the bus routes, it might be worth considering a hire car as taxis are very expensive in Ischia and you will see a lot more of the island this way.
What to do?
Giardini la Mortella
We visited this incredible garden on our first day and without a doubt it was a highlight for both of us. This tropical oasis was created and cultivated by Lady Susana Walton, the wife of the English composer Sir William Walton for over 50 years before it was opened to the public in 1991. Entry is only 12€ with concessions for children and pensioners or 20€ if you are planning on attending one of the concerts which are held regularly throughout the year. We visited in the afternoon and spent hours wandering around the various sections of the garden. A personal favourite stop was the crocodile pool, a calming pond surrounded by colourful plants and humming with effervescent dragonflies. It was the most perfect spot to take a seat with a book and soak in the afternoon sun. After exploring every nook and cranny, we stopped to refuel in the teahouse. Overlooking the garden, the teahouse feels like a sort of quaint, sophisticated, secret den. Sunlight filters through the dens greenery which grows along the balcony and roof and the terrace is filled with gorgeous patterned parasols. I had a perfectly sweet glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and the most delicious bruschetta I have tasted in a long time. An idyllic spot for lunch and a far higher quality of food than you might expect to find in what is essentially a cafe in a visitor attraction. Easily reached by bus, Giardini la Mortella is a must for anyone visiting Ischia.
Mont Epomeo Hike
When packing footwear for this trip I had definitely not considered that we might climb a mountain one day, so when my boyfriend insisted that the Mont Epomeo hike was the best way to spend the third day of our trip I was quite reluctant. Nevertheless, my trusty birkenstocks came to the rescue and we made it up the hill in one piece. We took the bus to Serrara Fontana where we stopped for a refreshing lemon granita and a coffee in the wee cafe by the bus stop before beginning our trek. The trail is pretty well sign posted and although it is very steep in certain places it only took us about 45 minutes to reach the top. The view as you climb is stunning and we stopped regularly to take it all in. Once you make it to the top, grab a seat in the restaurant terrace looking out over the sea and order some well deserved refreshments – I promise you, a cold glass of coke will never taste as good. If you are especially determined, carry on past the restaurant a short distance to reach the viewpoint at the topmost peak of the hill where you can enjoy (almost) 360 degree views over the island. Although it wasn’t too far to walk, this trek can be pretty steep and hard-going in places so take plenty of water, and better walking shoes than I had!
Negombo Hot Springs
After we made it down from Mont Epomeo parched and perspiring, we hopped on a bus to Lacco Ameno where we stopped to unwind at the Negombo Hot Springs for the rest of the day. At 26€ for a half day ticket, it wasn’t the cheapest way to spend an afternoon, but it was well worth it. Inside the park there is a number of thermal pools to explore all at different temperatures and with different thermal properties. You will get a little map to guide you through the greenery to each pool, stumbling across people lounging in hidden corners decked with bean bags or hammocks as you go. There is also larger pools at the bottom with sun loungers, a bar serving snacks and spritzes and a spa for anyone needing a little extra pampering. This was the most tranquil end to a busy day, I only wish we’d had longer to spend there! I highly recommend taking flip flops or water shoes for wandering in between pools and you can rent robes and towels once you are there if you so desire.
Castello Aragonese
On our last day in Ischia we took the short bus trip to Ischia Ponte to visit the famous Castello Aragonese. Once you wander across the short bridge to the castle entrance and buy your ticket (10€) you are guided into an elevator and ushered up to the start of your tour. We spent hours wandering around this fascinating place, reading about its history and following the very well-signposted route through the grounds. The site dates back nearly 2,500 years when the original fortress was built by Hiero I but the castle has transformed many times throughout its history, at one point it was home to over 2,000 inhabitants and has even been used as a prison in times of conflict. The castle is beautifully well kept and is home to both a boutique art gallery and the most gorgeous little cafe where we stopped for an aperol and an ice-cream overlooking the island.
Ischia Ponte itself is worth a trip as it is full of colourful little streets, quaint shop fronts and sea front restaurants. It is only a 10 minute bus ride from Ischia Porto and we were both gutted that we hadn’t ventured over earlier in our trip.
Where to eat?
On our first night we wandered down to the waterfront at Ischia Porto and found ourselves in a restaurant so good we went back twice. A strip of seafront restaurants overlooks the super yachts tied up in the port, each looking better than the other. After wandering a little further along we came to Taverna Antonio which enticed us with its ambience and comfortable setting. I asked the waiter for a wine recommended and was promptly served one of the most delicious dry white wines I have tasted. (As this was our first night I was yet to realise that all the local wines are as delicious as they are cheap – seriously, order the wine!). I chose a simple tomato gnocchi and Nic chose an octopus salad followed by a seafood pasta. Both dishes were perfectly cooked, full of flavour and the perfect first taste of Italy.
Another evening we took the bus over to San Angelo, cliffside town on the other side of the island. I would recommend spending an afternoon here as we simply didn’t have enough time to enjoy this gorgeous village in all its glory. There are no vehicles there so you need to get off the bus and walk a 10 minute journey down the hill to the town. We stopped in a seafood restaurant as you enter San Angelo and enjoyed another exquisite meal with even more exquisite views of the sun setting over the sea.
Wherever you go in Ischia, you will be delighted with fresh Italian food, incredible seafood and lemon sorbet like you have never experienced before. You can’t really go wrong!
4 thoughts on “How to Spend 4 Days in Ischia”
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Wow! Betty this is excellent! So well written and informative. You clearly have a gift, writing in such a way that encourages the reader’s interest in the place you describe. I think it’s great to read someone’s personal experience combined with helpful tips and suggestions, discovering new information about the ‘real’ destination. I am really looking forward to following your blog! Thank you very much.
Thank you for the kind comment! I’m so glad you’re enjoying my content, be sure to sign up to the newsletter so you never miss an update!
Betty x
Well Done
Wish I was there
Thank you!