Travelling has always been one of the main loves of my life. Exploring a new city, eating local food, swimming in the sea – these things have always invigorated me and usually I try to fill my summers with as many small adventures as I can. Last year Nic and I delighted in the pasta, views, and charm of Ischia, the year before that, a totally unforgettable week in the middle of nowhere in Croatia.
This year, of course, things were a little different. Wanting to avoid airports at all costs, our dreams of a summer island hopping in Greece were dashed, and we were forced to look closer to home.
Luckily, we live in one of the most beautiful countries in the world. A place that I, shamefully, have barely seen at all!
This year I had a very Scottish summer, made up of various small trips with my family or with Nic. We travelled by car, avoided hotels and busy public places, and followed Covid restrictions always.
Here’s what we got up to!
East Coast
Dundee
Where we stayed:
Urban Quarters, South Tay Street
These self-catered apartments in the centre of Dundee are the perfect place for a mini break in the city. A home away from home, our apartment was well-equipped for the nights we wanted to stay in and cook for ourselves, and the perfect location for walking to all our favourite restaurants and bars on the nights we wanted to go out!
We mostly spent our time here curled up on the sofa binging Selling Sunset, and making the most of the Eat Out to Help Out scheme in local cafes during the day.
What we ate:
Birchwood Emporium
In my opinion, the best coffee in Dundee can be found in the Birchwood Emporium. My personal favourite is a short, hot, flat-white with pea milk (I know, it sounds weird, but it is the best option for non-dairy drinkers, trust me!).
They also do a range of vegan and standard pastries and cakes which are always a treat and their lunch menu is pretty good too! Nic and I ate here a couple of times, always choosing the soup of the day and one of their delicious sandwiches or wraps – curried chicken for Nic, falafel and roast veg for me.
Heather Street Food Kitchen
Another firm favourite of ours this summer has been Heather Street Food’s pop-up bagel and drinks van outside the V&A.
We loved taking big walks along the waterfront and ending up at this scenic spot for a bite to eat and some people watching. Their ‘Drinky Malinky’ pop-up bar served Aperol Spritz, draught beers, and a range of other summery cocktails, their coffees give Birchwood a run for their money, and their bagels are always overflowing with fillings and flavour. The best bagel of the summer had to be the blue cheese, pear, and honey special they had on offer the first time we went to visit – I still dream of it sometimes!
Unfortunately, they have closed up their van for the summer, but fear not! They have moved round the corner and are now serving hot, fresh donuts and mulled wine to warm the soul as the days get colder.
Luigi’s Pizzeria
Since moving back to Dundee from Glasgow, I have been desperately missing my favourite Paesano’s pizza, so imagine my delight when I (re)discovered Luigi’s mouthwateringly delicious, handmade pizzas. This family-run pizzeria was established by the current owner’s grandpa in 1948 and the dough recipe hasn’t changed since then!
Their easy to use app means that order and delivery is a breeze. My favourite order is either the Amalfi (fire roasted tomato and olives), or my own creation, Margherita with black olives and pesto.
They also stock Joelato Ice-cream which is the creamiest, most indulgent treat around, and make a different cheesecake from scratch each day. The desserts are almost as good as the pizzas!
What we did:
Anstruther to Crail Walk
One of the days that we were staying in Urban Quarters, we were invited to spend the day with some friends in Anstruther, a small fishing village in Fife. It was a glorious day so we decided to do part of the Fife coastal walk and head to the next village over, Crail, for some lunch. The walk took just over an hour (it would have been a lot quicker but a lot of dandering and chatting took place!).
This walk is very well maintained and clearly signposted and runs all the way from Kincardine to Newburgh along the coastline. The views are stunning and the route is suitable for families out for a casual stroll as much as more ambitious walkers who are covering further distances.
Crail is a quaint wee place that is worth exploring. The harbour is full of colourful quirky fishing boats and lined with lobster creels. In the summer months there is a small hut by the water where you can buy crab and lobster rolls, or even a full lobster to enjoy on picnic benches by the boats. Those who are well organised, bring their own bottle of white wine to enjoy with their seafood feast.
If lobster is not your thing then there is plenty of good old fish and chips and ice-cream to be had in both Crail and Anstruther as well as wee cafes where you can find soup and a sandwich. Be warned though, it is not the most vegan friendly place!
Hermitage Walk, Dunkeld
Another day, again making the most of the good weather, Nic and I ventured over to Dunkeld, just under an hour outside of Dundee, to do the famous Hermitage walk.
This route is so popular that it was actually a little too busy for my liking, so I would suggest visiting early morning or on a weekday if you can! The forests around here were a play park for the old Dukes of Atholl who built a series of follies to entertain themselves. The Hermit’s cave was built in 1760 for the third Earl of Breadalbane who unfortunately never found an inhabitant for it, and Ossian’s Hall of Mirrors was redecorated in 1783 in tribute to the blind bard Ossian.
Nowadays, there are several picturesque walking paths through the trees and along the river which make for a great family day out!
Perthshire
Where we stayed:
Guardswell Farm
Nic and I were chuffed when my mum surprised us by booking a short stay in the Kailyard Hut. At Guardswell they have three small converted huts and a slightly larger cottage that you can book to stay in. The Kailyard is the smallest of the three, it is a cosy wee space with just enough room for a sumptuous double bed in the corner, a tiny wood burning stove, a gas hob, and a sink. There is no electricity but there are electric lamps, candles, and plenty of matches and wood supplied to cook either on the gas hob or the outdoor fire pit. There is a shower room and toilet attached to the main steading just a two minute walk from the hut which is roomy, cosy, and totally comfortable.
Nic and I spent the evening here sat by the outdoor fire with a bottle of wine and a pack of cards, watching the sheep in the field in front of us and the fiery sunset across the rolling fields. It was totally blissful.
I had expected our stay to be basic and slightly uncomfortable in the way that all camping/glamping experiences are, but in fact it was completely luxurious. We had everything we could need for short trip away, delicious ground coffee included (so good that Nic was trying to work out how he could steal a spoonful for his afternoon coffee the day we left).
There are so many lovely walks, and hidden surprises around this farm, it is the perfect getaway for couples, friends, or families alike – I would recommend it to anyone!
What we ate:
269 Vegan, Perth
After we left Guardswell, we weren’t ready for our short trip to end so we made a detour into Perth for afternoon coffee at 269 Vegan. I ordered a fluffy, soft, and sweet homemade cinnamon bun and Nic ate the most luxuriously indulgent brownie I have ever tasted – we couldn’t believe this was vegan baking!
I have it on good authority from my foodie friends that their lunch and breakfast options are worth a visit too.
What we did:
Kinnoull Hill Walk
This walk takes you to arguably one of the best views you will ever see. Honestly, looking out at the meandering Tay River and rolling pastoral fields from the cliffs at the top of Kinnoull Hill is like looking at a piece of fine art. It is magnificent.
The start of this walk is not far from the centre of Perth and there are a few car parks to choose from around the base of the hill. Nic and I parked on the road just down from the Quarry Hill car park and started our walk here. The route is well signposted and it is not hard to find your way through the forrest to the viewpoint – just head uphill!
It is a great walk for families or pets, Daisydog loves sniffing through the trees off-lead, however, once you get to the top of the hill, there is a very sheer drop from the cliff face so be careful here!
There is a big stone bench at the top which is a nice spot for a picnic, then following the path through the trees in the direction of Dundee from here will take you to the ruins of Kinnoull Hill Tower.
There are lots of signposted walking routes through this forestry park but if you simply head up to the view point, round, and down, the whole route should take around an hour.
This is an easy and completely stunning walk, full of wildlife and wood carvings. We saw a red squirrel and a deer last time we went!
Edinburgh
Where we stayed:
Thistle Street, Airbnb
My mum and sister stayed in this cosy and comfortable Airbnb on Thistle Street for two weeks in August, a time when Edinburgh would normally be mobbed with visitors to the Fringe Festival.
The flat had one small bedroom and a spacious lounge with a sofa bed, as well as a tidy little kitchen that was perfectly suited to a slightly longer stay in the city.
What’s more, Thistle Street is ideally located in the centre of Edinburgh, just a stones throw from great shops, restaurants, museums, and other visitor attractions. I came to visit my my mum and sister for a weekend while they stayed there and it was perfectly comfortable for the three of us.
What we did:
Baba
This has to be one of my all time favourite restaurants in Scotland. Located on George Street, Baba serves up a medley of mouthwatering Mediterranean dishes and is suitable for meat-eaters and vegans alike.
The menu is mostly made up of smaller sharing plates, including some unbelievably flavourful dips, (the baba ghanoush will blow any other baba ghanoush you have previously experienced out of the water), to be enjoyed with soft flatbreads which you will inevitably order more of.
We ordered about five dishes between the two of us (not including an excessive number of flatbreads) and unfortunately, this left us too stuffed for desert. However, I can confirm that the deserts are every bit as delicious as the dips because the previous time I ate here, Nic got so excited about his dark chocolate cremeux that I think he slightly frightened our waiter.
This is a MUST VISIT if you are ever in Edinburgh!
Contini
Another firm favourite on George Street, Contini’s is a family run Italian restaurant that has become a bit of an Edinburgh establishment.
We were impressed by how seriously they were taking the new Covid-19 rules and felt totally safe dining there. The staff are incredibly attentive, taking the time to talk through various alterations to meat dishes they could do for me as I didn’t fancy the one vegetarian option on the menu, and even giving us a Barese Carosello (savoury melon) away with us after we commented that we had never tried one before!
I ordered a pasta dish, and my parents had lemon sole, and my sister had the most amazing looking chicken Milanese. Everything was completely delicious, and once again, we had no room for desert!
What we drank:
Panda and Son’s
This Prohibition style speakeasy is the ideal spot for a post-Baba aperitif. Keep an eye out for a vintage looking barbershop front, head down the stairs, through the secret door, et viola! You have arrived. The attentive staff will seat you at a cosy table, and take good care of you for the rest of the night.
The menu is extensive and inventive, and don’t worry if you don’t see anything that takes your fancy. Your waiter is a cocktail conneseuir, able to quiz you on your tastes and recommend something yummy. Even if you think you know what you want, I’d still advise asking them for their personal favourites, and don’t be scared to be adventurous! The best thing about drinking here is discovering new flavours and trying quirky cocktails that you won’t find anywhere else.
Lucky Liquor
Another great spot for cocktails in town is Lucky Liquor. Their small menu packs a big flavour punch. I can personally recommend the Morado (Mezcal, purple corn mole syrup, mango, Lucky orange liqueur, lime) which was an unusual choice for me but, as it turns out, a great one!
We sat outside, enjoying the last of the summer sun, and the staff were friendly, helpful, and made us feel totally comfortable with all the new Covid regulations. This was a great spot for a pre-dinner drink and I would recommend it to anyone passing by.
What we did:
Armchair Books
What a treasure trove. This Aladdin’s Cave of old books is a MUST for any fellow bookworms. I can’t believe I had never been here until this summer! Take your time to navigate around the floor to ceiling bookshelves that fill every inch of space in this tiny shop, and admire the antique section which is full of the most incredible leather bound atlases, maps, and history books. A collector’s dream!
When shopping in second-hand bookshops, I always like to look out for authors whose work I admire and enjoy, and pick a couple of titles that I haven’t yet read. This time I selected Virginia Woolf’s To the Lighthouse and Surfacing by Margaret Atwood.
Second-hand books are so affordable, and the value to society that second-hand bookshops like this bring, is simply immeasurable. It breaks my heart to think of how corporate giants like Amazon are forcing this sustainable and important way of shopping out of business with their unrealistic and unsustainable approach to consumerism.
I make a point of never walking out of a second-hand bookshop without a book in my hand, even when I don’t quite know when I’ll get around to picking it up, and I urge you all to do the same!
West Coast
Glasgow
Where we stayed:
Little West End Hideaway
This tiny, cosy Airbnb was the perfect base for our week in Glasgow. Set in the basement of a family home, this space is quirky, quiet, and totally comfortable!
The luxurious lounge sofa is the perfect spot to curl up with your favourite person, a large glass of red wine, and a good movie. In classic West Coast fashion, it rained a lot while we were there so I have to admit that a lot of time was spent on this cushy sofa watching back-to-back episodes of Selling Sunset.
When we did venture out, we were in the ideal location to explore the whole of the West End on foot, and on those rare moments of glorious sunshine, the Botanic Gardens are right on your doorstep for a spot of ice-cream and sunbathing!
What we ate:
Roots, Fruits, and Flowers
This place will always hold a special spot in my heart. I remember travelling through to Glasgow on my own for a meeting with my uni advisor not long before I started my first year, sitting in the window of Roots and Fruits, enjoying a hearty bowl of soup and watching the people of Great Western Road wander by.
Sitting at those window stools still gives me a tingly feeling of freedom, gratitude, and excitement even today.
Roots and Fruits vegan sausage rolls are the finest in all of Glasgow, their salads never disappoint (the orzo, broccoli one is a firm favourite of mine), and they are always well stocked with the most ridiculously tasty pastries and cakes.
What we did:
Queen’s View Walk
A short 40 minute drive outside of Glasgow, this viewpoint is a popular walking destination for families and more serious hikers alike. Park in the Queen’s View carpark and follow the well signposted route over the fence and up the hill. If you don’t stray from the main path (like we did) you will come upon the strange rock formations of the Whangie, a sort of corridor of reddish rock that you can walk right through.
When you reach the small stone monument at the top of the hill, pause for Mars bar before heading back down, or continuing on towards the reservoir down the other side of the hill. Nic and I had a great time exploring and venturing ‘off-road’ on this walk, but make sure you are wearing the right footwear if you intend to do the same as it is incredibly marshy in places and my silly gym trainers got completely soaked through!
Glasgow Canal’s Walk
Another brilliant walk Nic and undertook on a sunny Glasgow day was along the River Kelvin, through Dawsholm Park, and back along the canals. This was quite the trek, foolishly attempted on a (mostly) empty stomach with no emergency Mars bars. Looking at Google maps while I write this, I am only now realising the distance we actually covered, no wonder I got so hangry towards the end!
Rumbling stomachs aside, this was a great wee adventure, through parts of Glasgow I had never visited before. I loved the views across the city from the field beside the Highland coos in Dawsholm Park, and the wander along the surprisingly well-kept and almost European canals as we headed back towards home.
We started from the Botanics in the West End but those who don’t fancy quite such an epic journey can park their cars near the Recycling Centre by Dawsholm park, or in Bearsden, and walk from there.
Up North
Moray
Where we stayed:
The Gardens at Mayen
There are a number of recently renovated holiday cottages to rent in the grounds of the historic, and remarkably well-kept Mayen Estate. We stayed in the Pheasantry, a two bedroom cottage which felt as quaint and cosy as staying at your Grannies house when you were a wee kid. The gorgeous tidy garden on your doorstop, chickens wandering freely, adorable illustrations of tiny field mice in each room, and roaring wood-burning stove in the living room will fulfil all of your wildest cottage-core dreams.
The grounds themselves are well worth a wander and are filled with quirky landscaping and tonnes of character around every bend. They are well kitted out for fishing trips down by the river, and there are a number of interesting towns and villages nearby to explore!
What we ate:
Port Knockie Fish and Chips
I unfortunately did not get to experience the fish and chips at Port Knockie as I had to head home early for work, but mum insisted I include them in this blog as they were “the best fish and chips I have ever had in my life”.
I’m not sure if this is purely a Covid-19 policy, but the only way to order food was to phone ahead in the morning and place your order (you can view the menu online here), then pick it up later at your chosen time slot. Mum recommends phoning early to avoid disappointment as they sell out quickly each day!
Once you have picked up your fish supper, head down towards the sea and choose a spot overlooking the famous Bowfiddle rock to hunker down and tuck in.
What we did:
Exploring Crovie
Mum, dad, and I had a great day adventuring through some of the coastal villages along the Moray Firth. Crovie had to be the most unique and picturesque of them all. A fully pedestrianised street of cottages perched between the cliffs and the shoreline, this tiny village is like nowhere else I have ever been.
According to Undiscovered Scotland:
‘Crovie was established by families cleared from inland estates in the late eighteenth century. Having been moved off their land to make way for their landlord’s sheep, they then had the pleasure of operating fishing boats owned by the landlord, largely for his benefit and entirely at their risk. By the mid nineteenth century some fishermen had built their own boats, and by the end of the century some fifty such owner-operated boats sailed from Crovie.’
Nowadays, however, almost all of these wee cottages are holiday lets and the place is busiest in the summer months. There are no shops, cafes, pubs, or restaurants in Crovie but is is a short walk (when the tide is right) to the nearby Gardenstown where you can find the amenities you may need!
Exploring Pennan
We drove on to the equally quaint and tiny Pennan, another tiny row of cottages perched between the sea and the cliffs, but very slightly more accessible by car. Old film buffs might recognise this unusual wee village from the popular 1983 movie Local Hero which we curled up by the fire to watch the night after visiting!
There is an inn here with a restaurant but (perhaps for Covid reasons) it was closed when we visited so we had to venture on in our hunt for a coffee and a toilet break! As in Crovie, there is nothing much happening in Pennan but it is scenic, strange, and worth a wee wander!
Tarlear Lido
As we drove back along the coast towards lunch we passed through Macduff, and took a short detour to visit the Tarlear Lido, a disused Art Deco style outdoor swimming pool which was once a popular summer spot. We were happily surprised to stumble across a group of model boat enthusiasts racing their boats across the calm water of the old pool, and enjoyed watching the models of all shapes and sizes (including fishing boats) whizz around.
The lido itself looks pretty run down, and you can’t help but imagine what it must have been in its heyday.
A very Scottish summer!
As much as I missed my usual European expeditions this summer, I have to say I relished the chance to get to know my home country a little better.
And, while I will continue to venture abroad in summers to come, I will never again overlook the sun, sea, and simple luxury of a summer in Scotland!